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Daily Archives : September 15, 2011

Image Diary | Nomia S/S12

Blog


Raul Guerrero, FIASCO senior fashion editor visits The Box at the Lincoln Center where the W Hotels presented Nomia.
The W Hotels Spotlights and supports talented emerging designers around the world (New York, London, Moscow, and Bangkok). “Meet our global fashion next designers”. Thank you Omen PR.

NYFW | Proenza Schouler SS/12

Fashion & Photography


Proenza Schouler is pitting itself against the greats.
As the procession of models stomped down the runway to the sounds of tribal drums there was something oddly superior about the Proenza Schouler Spring 2012 collection. Not superior in a self entitled, glances-down-your-nose, sniffs-at-the-plebes type of way but instead, a superiorty of design, of aesthetic, and of quality. Having long ago shaken the smell of new designer blood, though they are still fairly new, Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez seemed to be designing in the world of the Miuccia Pradas and Marc Jacobs of the world.
The inspiration was clear: ethnic, tribal even. With ratted hair, the models are made up with a bold brow. While prints, and high waisted pencil skirts seemed to rule the collection with more than a few splits, it was the last four looks that caught my attention. Glistening in the lights of the runway, the embroidered looks feature sheer cutouts.

NYFW | Theysken’s Theory SS/12

Fashion & Photography

Even though Olivier Theyskens has only been in New York for a short period of time, (He moved from Paris a little more than a year ago.) he has the NY cool girl uniform down to a science. Theyskens Theory’s mix of commonplace trendy staples like the boyfriend jeans (and Theysken’s innovative new jean silhouette, a drop waist/high waist hybrid), slouchy t-shirts, heavy knits, mini-dresses and trench coats and glam more fashion-forward pieces like the couture-influenced green and gold tweed-y jacket with iridescent crystal embroidery and holographic pants in the same colors, with high-heeled combat boots and a few sharp, structured handbags, has a subdued flirtatious feel.
Theysken told the press, “She’s a bit rock ‘n’ roll, without BEING rock ‘n’ roll,” he noted “She’s not too obvious. She’s not an actress or anything. She’s a girl you’d see on the street, and think, ‘Now, SHE looks interesting!“

NYFW | Thakoon SS/12

Fashion & Photography

Thakoon’s Spring/Summer 2012 Neo-Bollywood/Spaghetti Cowboy fantasy took the seasons, already omnipresent neon color story to an entirely different setting! Cowboy hats, bandannas, gold accents and ethnic embroideries made for one of the most interesting collections of the season so far. Kitschy (in a good way) chambray tops and gold-toed heels in ostrich skin that resemble cowboy boots, paraded alongside lamé salwar kameezes and saris gave the collection a bold, campy feel. My favorite look came in the form of a peplum top (another omnipresent trend) and shorts combo in a Balenciaga-ish print with metallic gold bands wreathing the hems (shown on Andie Arthur).

Thakoon Panichgul’s knack for theatricality all came together at New York’s Plaza Hotel grand ballroom. In all of its baroque opulence, the Plaza became a certifiable character in Thakoon’s vision, the collection with all of its far flung references, temptuous romanticism and exotic tone fit in most quixotically with the ballroom’s gilt ornamentation and tremendous chandeliers. Another character in the story: the hair. The model slunk up and down the runway with pink, green, lilac, bronze and blue updo’s colored with pulverized colored clay powder (a reference to India’s Holi festival).

NYFW | 3.1 Phillip Lim

Fashion & Photography

3.1 Phillip Lim showed an almost perfect collection at the end of NYFW. After seeing a a blur of color, everything from neon, to pastels, to bold color blocking, Lim showed a collection that seems to be “just right” gentle in silhouette and easy on the eyes he didn’t re-invent the wheel but went back to the classics and remade what has worked for years. Tailored in Light flouncy fabrics and a sherbert hue that wasn’t “in your face” he kept your attention with each look, reworked with modern details.  The LBD is a light  to the knee trapeze silhouette, a chic as hell column dress with blocked shoulder panels and a side slit, the statement piece- a long leather Black Vest and a White Coat with cut out lapels. Lim also worked the classic denim vest which transforms into a bag by zipping and snapping. The ease of the pants silhouette Lim repeats is key for spring and just hangs loosely and off the hip.  Lim introduced an abstract print toward the end of the collection which seemed unnecessary and didn’t compliment the already strong and complete collection. Overall, I thought this was an uber-chic and refreshing collection that is super wearable and hits all the points.

NYFW | RAD by Rad Hourani SS/12

Fashion & Photography

It was like Rad brought Paris to New York Fashion Week for his Rad by Rad Hourani presentation. This season Rad decided to opt out of the Milk Studios venue for an intimate less hectic location with about 150 seats to accommodate the press. The invite foreshadowed Rad’s play on the color blue (the only color that reigns in my closet since black is the absence of color it doesn’t count) and the evolution of it. “Blue here stands for health, lightness, intuition and self love and the different shapes and silhouettes are used as a medium to convey the color and it positive duration”. Blues ranged to reflect the change in the skies of the day to the almost black night sky.

For Spring 2012, Rad Hourani in conjunction with Patti Wilson evolved the silhouette that carried the qualities of the classic tuxedo jacket (there were short and elongated tales). This time the multi-functioning jackets with adjustable belts to aide the transformation of garments, were equally as important as the introduction of chambray to the buttoned down woven that strolled in a few styles and combinations. Note how the androgyny look of the cast was still present but inclined towards a strong masculine confidence.