LeftRight

Daily Archives : September 21, 2011

LFW | Paul Smith SS/12

Fashion & Photography

Words by Ali McNally, FIASCO Assistant Editor

Paul Smith‘s woman in Spring 2012 carries herself with a certain hands-thrust-in-pockets nonchalance. Her clothes are impeccably tailored, but it is a relaxed tailoring with a menswear edge. Trousers dominated the collection, appearing in a variety of colours, prints and finishes ranging from tartan to a glossy shantung, but always cropped to expose an ankle and in most instances, a sensible loafer. Shirts and blouses were blowsily unbuttoned, while fedoras sat at a jaunty angle. All of this gave the collection a relaxed, unfettered feel, especially when paired with a neutral, barely painted face and hair that appeared to have been left to air dry. Jackets were cut slightly oversized, as if borrowed from a lover. Shirtsleeves were rolled up, scarves left untied. Accessories were minimal: only a few, understated polka dot handbags in candy colours made an appearance, along with the aforementioned fedoras and oversized sunglasses. Overall the whole slouchy vibe gave the impression of a woman far too self-assured and relaxed to worry about making outré fashion statements.

LFW | Osman SS/12

Fashion & Photography

Photos by Luke Charles. Words by Rivkie Baum FIASCO UK Fashion Editor


Osman is one of LFW’s must see shows and the BFC show space was packed.
Waists were cinched tight with corsets and bodice tops, with silk panels draped over the top making the models appear like they were floating.
Trousers were skinny legged and often worn under tunics or with neatly fitted tops. Necklines and armholes were slashed to reveal extra flesh while several pieces featured 1920’s dropped waists.
There were several high necklines that tied with over sized bows like big collars creating a dramatic silhouette while others featured extra long fringing (like Giles) falling from the neckline.
Blended Merino’s, Jacquard, Alcantara, French Knot and several pieces had devore embroideries that added texture and looked like tribal markings.
Pastel pink and green tones were mixed with monochrome, jewel red, prussian blue and optic whites.
Another strong and beautiful collection from a firm fashion favourite.

LFW | Aminaka Wilmont SS/12

Fashion & Photography

Photos by Luke Charles. Words by Rivkie Baum FIASCO UK Fashion Editor


Aminaka Wilmont rounded off the women’s wear schedule for SS12 in London and did so in the style we have come to know them for.
The brand specialises in beautiful prints and this season saw delicate dove grey and white tones combined into soft abstract floral prints. Body con, jersey, dresses had cut out panels to ensure flashes of flesh. These dresses had an almost tribal feel to them and were bold and powerful despite the softer colour palette. The jersey pieces were mixed with sheer chiffons, with skirts being given a chiffon train at the back.
There were several leather jackets that were filtered into the collection in shades of brown that were cinched tightly at the waist by belts. The final few pieces in the collection included printed body armour which was absolutely gorgeous as the floral print soften something more masculine and aggressive.
Another true to form collection for Aminaka Wilmont who continue to deliver every season.

LFW | Amanda Wakeley SS/12

Fashion & Photography

Photos by Luke Charles. Words by Rivkie Baum FIASCO UK Fashion Editor


Amanda Wakeley is the LFW drapery queen and today was no exception. Jewel tones of mustard, turquoise, red, coral and dove grey, alongside navy and black made up a rich palette and followed suit to emerging colour trends.
Asymmetric dresses, draped from jewelled neck pieces and long line silhouettes that sat close to the body at the front billowed from back straps as models trooped down the catwalk.
There were several kaftan style dresses too in silk prints including a monochrome print and a beautiful yellow and grey print. The final print in the collection was a thick russian red and white stripe that was fresh and summery.
Armholes were draped round and day dresses in navy silk were draped and pinned at the back creating soft and rounded silhouettes. Wakeley used partially hidden belts to cinch waists of column dresses creating extra draping. Several backs had cut outs that then flowed into more gathered skirts.
The collection was sharp, modern and incorporated chic day wear and elegant maxi dresses that Wakeley is known for. Coming to a red carpet near you soon.