Daily Archives : January 20, 2012

Henrik Vibskov Fall 2012

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Henrik Vibskov FW12t

Henrik Vibskov presented a collection filled with prints such as zebra, jacquard and a range of others were mixed together, or paired with colour blocked and bold, strong colours in yellow, grey, white, black, olive and navy. Harem style pants with some with athletic or jodhpur details or cycling style shorts were shown with oversized cardigans, jerseys, blazers or trench coats. Collarless or “mandarin” collared style shirts in varying colours and prints were shown as well as rain jackets with lined hoods.

Models were accessorized with caps, long; knee length socks paired with sandals with fringe detail and sling bags and printed scarves.

The collection at first look could be described as mismatched. On closer inspection though, you do see the true character and kookiness of the collection. In theory, the pieces styled together shouldn’t work, but he has shown the collection in a mixed and pieces that could be somewhat unconventional actually work incredibly well.

Yohji Yamamoto Fall 2012

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Yohji Yamamoto like Westwood started out with a strong tartan trend which ran throughout the collection in several suits for Fall 2012.

There was a real theatrical element to the show which manifested itself through capes, military detailed and asymmetrically cut blazers as well as cropped tailored jackets.

Trouser silhouettes started with sharp straight legs before drifting into slouchy, silk trousers, reminiscent of the pyjama trend that hit the womenswear catwalk in September.

Navy, grey, black, red, camel and wine made up the main body of the collection’s palette with splashes of khaki and cream along the way.

It was an incredibly layered look, with various textures and asymmetrically deconstructed jackets being overlaid to create depth and interest to the look. Several jackets were cut away, or appeared ‘half finished’ and in some cases an extra lapel added in a bid to create new and interesting silhouette ideas in tailoring. Unlike many menswear brands, the look at Yamamoto is less restrictive and sharp tailoring is replaced by looser fits and greater attention to embellishment and button details.  Dickensian neck ties, plimsoles, Doc Marten style boots and fedora hats further created a look of eclectic taste and interesting details.

Alexander McQueen Fall 2012

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Sarah Burton formulated a cast of characters rivaling even the most dashing male protagonist in your favorite Brontë sisters novel for Alexander McQueen Fall 2012. The result, a laconic collection based on original nineteenth-century portraits from Vanity Fair magazine. No stops were missed in making sure all of the archetypes were represented; the tyke in knickerbockers, the gangster in the double-breasted, pinstriped suit and even the tramp in a sateen trench. Burton is the master of transcending the label “costume” while also embracing it and giving customers a chance to assume an intrinsic character in their commonplace affairs. Profoundly beautiful pieces like the jumper and matching waistcoat, embroidered with tulips and the jacquard raven feather printed suit, shown next to sensible pieces like a Glen plaid trench coat with a matchin 3-piece suit  and louche bomber jacket with leather sleeves show you how Burton can send you hurdling into the cosmos with her more imaginative designs but takes the same masterful approach to creating classics to wrangle you right back in.

Marc Jacobs Fall 2012

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Marc Jacobs FW12s

The Marc Jacobs Menswear collection for Fall 2012 was a flash of ‘devil may care skater boy’ meets modern fashion. The presentation was composed of easy going yet strikingly formal pieces. Tailored pants with loose ankles as well as striking mustard yellow and raspberry red colors that accent the garments give the collection a young edge. Models were featured in contrasting pieces: pea and double-breasted coats on one hand with biker jackets on the other, large printed tees were juxtaposed against dapper, more mature pieces giving the collection a mature but still playful feeling. As far as accessories went bags ranged from weekenders to messengers. Large sunglasses that framed the face made a statement along with shoestring belts that were made to seem chic and fun. Headgear ranged from beanies to an over the top pink ushanka.