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Daily Archives : January 23, 2012

Wooyoungmi Fall 2012

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look 4

The latest collection by Korean born Wooyoungmi is warm and understated. She continues to design with sensitivity and self restraint, believing ‘beauty is about concealing rather than revealing’. Like graceful silhouettes in an old spy movie, she succeeds in redefining military wear in a sophisticated and elegant way. This season the Wooyoungmi man exudes strength, youth and beauty, basking in warm and earthy tones. Woolen turtle necks, coats and trousers harmonise with traditional hues such as maroon, black, grey, khaki and muddy brown. Wooyoungmi design is a respectful salute to simpler times.

EXCLUSIVE: Frentzos Fall 2012

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IMG 1131

For his Fall 2012 collection Angelos Frentzos continues his move towards a relaxed and layered menswear, avoiding completely any trace of tailoring and concentrating on beautiful details like the strips of jersey he has woven in his mohair sweaters to give them some stiffer, contrasting detail, or the beautiful vintage photographic prints he does in an old Paris laboratory. His men this season take a trip from the snows of the Alaska to the sunny glam-rock beaches of LA, so an old nordic-style sweater becomes a print on jersey and wool, creating the illusion of knitwear fit for a chalet, wolves are printed all over ina fractal print or take center stage on t-shirts, winter landscapes are printed on bomber jackets and pants and when we arrive in LA our boys go full black with silver and gold studs, at a second glance the studs design a snowflake motif, thus bringing the journey back to that original vintage sweater. A move away from tailoring and a strong sportswear influence doesn’t mean we’re talking about easy weekend pieces here, the dark, goth soul of Angelos shines in its subtle rock’n’roll glory throughout the collection, which retains a strong, personal vibe and a very strong image.

3.1 Phillip Lim Fall 2012

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Phillip Lim FW12z

This is Phillip Lim in his element. Phillip confidently exhibits his love affair with minimalist luxury effortlessly yet again this season producing strong utilitarian basics, a trend which we’re seeing more and more of. This collection showcased a refined mix of casual key pieces styled up with some nice eyewear, Doc Marten style army boots and clean cut leather satchels, complimented by an array of desirable suede bomber jackets and duffel coats as well as more formal tailored suit jackets. Another point of interest for me was trouser style, straight out of 1940’s, tenderly matched with structured knitted jumpers and coats. Though not the most inventive collection, he remains an undeniable master of tailored minimalism.

Julius Fall 2012

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Tatsuro Horikawa’s “Julius” FW12 collection was a very polished one compared to previous ones, still retaining the semi-androgynous Gothicism but allowing a more refined, less damaged and aggressive look. Clean-lines were evident and tortured prints were featured on some looks. Zippers also played an important role in the overall look of the ‘Julius man’. He emerged from his dark and destructive past with tailored pants and almost military styled shoes but still clung to the broken memories of a former self. Black and dark grey were the sole colors of the collection. Long coats, jackets and jerseys made from a variety of materials such as worn out canvas and wool were also seen here. Minimal accessories were featured apart from the odd leather bag or two.

A fashion of fragmented evils and daring style that was a shocking breakthrough of a collection. Julius has pleased yet again and we cannot wait to see what he has in store for us next.

Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2012

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Ann DFW12n

For Fall/Winter 2012, Ann Demeulemeester exhibits signature Victorian tinged gothica along with a shock burst of color found in heart-quickening blues and bold, blood reds. Gratuitous use of gradients and daring pops of hue played a key role in telling this seasons story. Creeping degradé tones mirrored the vibe on the smoke filled runway and added a touch of fleeting romance to the looks.

Over the course of a well-outfitted 34 look collection, an emphasis on high necklines and low hemlines emerged. The lengthened hem, which is by no means a new venture of the brands DNA, exemplified a new sensibility for the open minded man. For all purposes, aesthetic and avant-garde, the skirt and dress seem to be the new standard to strut by in forward menswear. Knee grazing tunics and zipaway jackets plunged to new depths as most looks carried out a flirtatious shuffle with proportion.

Damir Doma Fall 2012

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Damir Doma FW12d

Damir Doma presented a collection of deep colour tones and layered textures for Fall 2012. The collection felt rich and dramatic as fur vests and coats were layered over printed suit jackets with loose, drop crotched trousers. The collection began with a real tribal feel, as the use of prints, blanket capes and beaded necklaces had a Tibetan vibe running through. The combination of burgundy with brown/grey tones created a warm and sumptuous luxury.

Like at Westwood and Yohji, Damir also chose to present print combination suits, with one half of the suit sporting a thick stripe and the other side a much finer stripe print. Silhouettes were asymmetrical with a deconstructed feel to the loose fitting blazers. Tunics layered over slim leg trousers with grand dad collars again added to the Tibetan like vibe of the collection.

The third phase in the collection was the sharpest and the most sophisticated with jet black suiting and layered, asymmetrically cut outerwear and tightly belted jackets that carried strong military inspirations. Trousers were slouchy or stopped short as ankle swingers, while blazers carried a longer line sitting comfortably at the hip.

As the collection drew to a close, the lighter charcoal grey suiting returned infused with dove grey shirts, fur gilets and jewel coloured, tailed shirts that brought the collection full circle to its tribal roots.

A wonderful journey through interesting cutting techniques, strong colour combinations and striking silhouettes.

John Galliano Fall 2012

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John Galliano FW12a

John Galliano has gone gangster for Fall/Winter 2012 flaunting shadowy vibes straight from the realm of film noir.

Under the reign of new creative director, Bill Gaytten, the show opened with a striking patent leather trench marched down the runway by FORD model and Fiasco favorite, Francisco Lachowski. The collection lightens up from its depression-era stream of straight legged suits and opens up into a range that displays an ode to the “quirky aeronautic”. Shimmers of metallic accents accentuate looks fit for flight as the Galliano guy takes to the skies. A brief story contains some interesting standout pieces; notably, metallic jodhpurs, a leather sports jacket and some seriously bold footwear sporting emphatic metal plaques.

Gayten gets his kicks up above before returning to terra firma with a closing moment which seems to be influenced by speakeasies and the retro, smoky sex appeal of the Jazz Age. Sassy embellishments, lush velvets and tuxedo touches lend authenticity to last looks which give nothing but smoldering appeal in their confidence and gentle exuberance.