Damir Doma presented a collection of deep colour tones and layered textures for Fall 2012. The collection felt rich and dramatic as fur vests and coats were layered over printed suit jackets with loose, drop crotched trousers. The collection began with a real tribal feel, as the use of prints, blanket capes and beaded necklaces had a Tibetan vibe running through. The combination of burgundy with brown/grey tones created a warm and sumptuous luxury.
Like at Westwood and Yohji, Damir also chose to present print combination suits, with one half of the suit sporting a thick stripe and the other side a much finer stripe print. Silhouettes were asymmetrical with a deconstructed feel to the loose fitting blazers. Tunics layered over slim leg trousers with grand dad collars again added to the Tibetan like vibe of the collection.
The third phase in the collection was the sharpest and the most sophisticated with jet black suiting and layered, asymmetrically cut outerwear and tightly belted jackets that carried strong military inspirations. Trousers were slouchy or stopped short as ankle swingers, while blazers carried a longer line sitting comfortably at the hip.
As the collection drew to a close, the lighter charcoal grey suiting returned infused with dove grey shirts, fur gilets and jewel coloured, tailed shirts that brought the collection full circle to its tribal roots.
A wonderful journey through interesting cutting techniques, strong colour combinations and striking silhouettes.