The latest collection by Korean born Wooyoungmi is warm and understated. She continues to design with sensitivity and self restraint, believing ‘beauty is about concealing rather than revealing’. Like graceful silhouettes in an old spy movie, she succeeds in redefining military wear in a sophisticated and elegant way. This season the Wooyoungmi man exudes strength, youth and beauty, basking in warm and earthy tones. Woolen turtle necks, coats and trousers harmonise with traditional hues such as maroon, black, grey, khaki and muddy brown. Wooyoungmi design is a respectful salute to simpler times.

Tatsuro Horikawa’s “Julius” FW12 collection was a very polished one compared to previous ones, still retaining the semi-androgynous Gothicism but allowing a more refined, less damaged and aggressive look. Clean-lines were evident and tortured prints were featured on some looks. Zippers also played an important role in the overall look of the ‘Julius man’. He emerged from his dark and destructive past with tailored pants and almost military styled shoes but still clung to the broken memories of a former self. Black and dark grey were the sole colors of the collection. Long coats, jackets and jerseys made from a variety of materials such as worn out canvas and wool were also seen here. Minimal accessories were featured apart from the odd leather bag or two.

A fashion of fragmented evils and daring style that was a shocking breakthrough of a collection. Julius has pleased yet again and we cannot wait to see what he has in store for us next.