Jonathan Saunders presented his Fall/Winter 2012/2013 collection in Milan during menswear week, a cool and simple affair with a sort of familiar feeling. Taking a minimalist approach to a subtle 1960s vibe, the collection explored the decade through interior and furniture design, with a slight nod to Prada’s retro taste ( as seen in the labels collections from the late 90s). A book about the designer Charlotte Perriand, and her furniture of the 1930s, 40s, and 50s got Saunders thinking about the aesthetics of mid-century modern design.Weave patterns borrowed from her oeuvre were enlarged and printed on clothes with a slightly sixties shape. Wallpaper designs with geometric shapes had a certain digital look to them, hinting at very elegant videogames, jacquard textiles were used for suits and jackets and ranged from the very retro to the futuristic.The materials took up where the wallpaper prints left off, woven and knitted surfaces created architectural 3D textures and off-center colours like saffron yellow, tomato red, duck-egg blue, teal, burgundy gave the collection an optimistic vibe and a warmth that was quite in keeping with the decade which inspired it, and also a very welcome respite from the doom and gloom that seems to hover on our futures and next season’s collections. Saunders’ success eventually lies in the total mastering of the fine balance of detail, print, and minimalist line, which fuse to create something fresh and coherent, leaving the retro as just a sweet after-taste.
photos and words by Riccardo Slavik