Johnson Hartig’s Fall 2012 collection for Libertine was heavy on embellishment. Dresses, coats, capes and trousers were weighed down with intricate hand-beading and studding, ranging from a light sprinkling on a hemline to full patterns reminiscent of punks and Pearly Queens. The entire collection, particularly the menswear, was imbued with Hartig’s signature playfulness, an element that is so often missing from fashion, and always much appreciated.
Alexander Wang continued his sports luxe vibe at NYFW. A monochrome palette was accented with burgundy hues that have been a key tone so far for next season. Fabrics were manipulated, shrink-wraped, laminated and lacquered to create a high shine textured and stiffened appearance. Silhouettes were square and boxy although pencil skirts added a feminine touch.
Thigh high splits in knee length trench coats and deep v necks, filled in with sheer and perforated fabrics played nicely between sporty and sexy, while the gold button detailing added a touch of military to the look.
Slim leg cropped trousers teamed with sheer, ruched polo necks, teamed with perforated mouth masks, that had an almost ‘Hannibal’ appeal added a hauntingly gothic tone that was further emphasized through padded coats, over sized medicine bags and fur jackets.
A beautiful collection of rich tones, high shine and one that makes sports styling certainly more appealing.
Jason Wu hit the ground running at NYFW with a collection that manages to team super sophistication with edgy, luxurious detailing.
Quilted jackets that have a distinct Barbour vibe were tightly cinched at the waist and finished with a thick band of fur. In fact fur was trim du jour as it adorned epulates, shoulder panels and collars.
Giving a nod to Giles AW11 black fur skirts, this time pencilled were teamed with neat mandarin jackets providing the perfect contrast in volume.
There was a definite Oriental theme to the collection that showed itself through mandarin collars, detailed embroidery and floor length silk dresses that had bustiers covered in lace and elegant draping from the waist that narrowed at the hem.
Skinny leg trousers, seamed and streamlined shifts, waisted jackets ensured for a very neat selection of silhouettes and played perfectly against the combination of fabrics, with wool, silk and velvet fitting the form, contrasted by fur sleeves.
In striking tones of red, black, charcoal, pewter and burgundy this was a truly captivating collection, which showed off Wu’s skills in draping, tailoring and embellishment.
Gurung opened his show with a series of LBD’s, black woven fur coats with laminated sleeves (amazing) and shift dresses that threw iridescent leather and neoprene into the mix. Tightly cinched at the waist the opener was definitely ‘Good Girl, Gone Bad’ with lashings of attitude as sheer paneled sections revealed plenty of skin. As the collection moved into its second phase, the ‘Blue Zone’, Japan’s coveted blue roses and Georgia O’Keeffe cow skull prints in a blue and monochrome palette adorned bootleg silk trousers, cocoon dresses and blazers.
The third phase saw Gurung combine metallic gold and white in the earlier print as well as a beautiful gold leather floor length dress with cut out detailing at the waist. White gowns closed the show, with the finale piece featuring a white feathered train.
Embroidery and embellishment, ruffled and sheer insets at times added too much detailing to the collection creating a riot of sensations that defocused the eye from the beautiful cuts, as delicately flared skater skirted dresses, flowing capes and red carpet gowns were occasionally lost in the drama.
