This interview is the second half of a two part interview. Catch the first part here.
RS- There seems to be a lot more interest in fashion at any level than, say 6-7 years ago, men know and want to know about fashion.
AM- They have developed a certain sensibility and this is good for the market.
RS- I personally find menswear a lot more interesting than womenswear at the moment, it gives me a frisson that womenswear hasn’t been able to provide for a while..
AM- It’s interesting because this evolution, it’s happening in a strong and fast way. It’s like a mutation; it’s all happening in a short time. Living in conservative countries as we do sometimes we have to push things to make it happen, but in England they’re more open, young people are more interested in fashion even in more adventurous ways.
RS- Here for young people it’s more about investing in recognizable accessories, but still I guess it’s a good time to invest in underwear. When will the line be available?
AM- It’s going to be in shops in about a month. It’s going to be a smaller distribution because the prices are a bit higher than basic Hom underwear. It’ll mainly be department stores like Coin in Italy, Printemps in France, Selfridges in London, Galeries Lafayette in Berlin, also in Japan and many other countries which has opened a new market for me. So the home-wear is basically borderline pret-a-porter and the t-shirts and top of pajamas can be worn as tops.
The prices are good, you can use the top of a pajama as a shirt for about 60€. When I was doing underwear by myself the briefs were about 100€. We sold some. but now they are 40€, which is higher than some of the market but I wanted the quality to be really good, so I hope they’re worth it.
Another thing that took us a long time was creating new fittings and cuts. We didn’t want to use the same as Hom, as we’re doing a different product and it would be in nobody’s interest to just jazz up some of their styles, so we fitted the underwear and swimwear on many types of boys to make sure the cuts worked best.
RS- So this is the ‘‘basic’’ Mabille for Hom collection and you’re gonna build on that?
AM-Yes now we have the shapes, the cuts and patterns and from here we can go in different directions.
RS – I’m very happy for you it seems like a great progression in your career!
AM- I’m very happy myself because now I have my own underwear! The way I did the collection is basically what I’d would have wanted for myself.
RS- I think the collection strikes a very good balance between sexy and sweet, with the extra graphic touch which makes it even more modern and interesting.
AM- I tried to give it a sort of innocent feel, like something you used to like in your childhood. Also there’s only one white brief and no black, every piece has some cut or detail and the only logo thing I did was the funny bow-tie pattern, which is a bit japanese. I didn’t want it to be too serious you know?
RS- Speaking of basics, I love for example that you can go to American Apparel and have briefs in every possible color, and I love using them in shoots, but the quality isn’t so good, and like you were saying you need the know-how and the technique to make good underwear.
AM- I love working with Hom because this is what they do and they have the techniques and they have their own factories, and you wouldn’t believe how complicated some of the simpler pieces are, for example the striped briefs have different patterns for the right and left side because we cut the fabric on the bias so the extension is not the same, and they would be crooked if we didn’t have differnt patterns, so, like I said, I’m very happy to be working with Hom, it’s a great team, and they’re all girls! We get along very well.. And hopefully people will buy my underwear.. The reception’s been good and it will be in stores shortly, so we’ll see!
models Gianluca from Fashion, Conrad from Independent, Sam from Elite
photography Lorenzo Marcucci
styling Riccardo Slavik
make-up Elena Barosi
hair Piero Marsiglio
hair and make-up assistant Asia Erminio