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Daily Archives : June 20, 2012

Spring | JW Anderson SS13

BlogFashion & Photography

Homme Mode JQAndersen SS13s

On Friday, Martine Rose livened up an understated start to London Collections: Men with a collection filled with what I called “Rather Wrong, and Possibly Very Wrong”.

That lurking Wrong-ness – the pervasive sense of disruption and provocation which fuelled so much of the weekend’s aesthetic turbulence – reached a crescendo on the final day of the showcase, with collections by designers as disparate as Meadham Kirchhoff and J.W. Anderson. Both Fashion East alumni, their sensibilities are poles apart (Anderson’s tactile sensuality which has gradually honed from improvised ease to refined abstraction, whilst the Meadham Kirchhoff boys specialise in dense, complicated, dazzlingly-detailed intimacy); but their Summer 2013 collections summed up London’s stubborn determination to drag menswear into new territories.

Anderson recently expanded into womenswear, riffing first on the notion of girls borrowing boys clothes, and then increasingly on a stylised androgyny which suppresses gender within stiff, sturdily asexual shells. Today, though, the problem of gender was back, in a collection tellingly titled “Age of Consent”; and this time it was boys borrowing from girls which set the agenda. Models walked down the mirror-slick ICA runway in hip-hugging flared trousers with coordinating t-shirts, or sheer lacy pyjama suits, or knitted twinsets, with headscarves and dangling handbags emphasising the brand’s swerve towards transgression. But it was the mixture of deliberateness and almost accidental nonchalance which made it so intriguing – a kind of “why not” approach to dressing which questioned why a man mightn’t be just as likely as a woman to reach for a wraparound bubblegum pink overcoat , or a head-to-toe turquoise pantsuit. The overlapping cuts and dropped hems and clashing proportions which animated the collection drove home that sense of uneasiness, generating boldly unfamiliar sculptural shapes (or, to be precise, shapes that were unfamiliar on men).

The last few pieces, though, showed the point of all those visual games; a sequence of low-key black suits which moved on from the theatre of the catwalk to the simple question of what men could actually wear. In this case, it was judo-style wrap tops tucked into fluid trousers; a straightforward, accessible ending which emphasised that Anderson – as well as generating buzz – is also in the business of selling clothes.

Spring | Christopher Raeburn SS13

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Homme Mode CRaeburn SS13s
Raeburn scored another home run this week with his clever, sporty, outerwear style. From parkas, ponchos and baseball jackets in smart techno sports fabrics to quilted puffas and leather options the collection was both fun and inventive. Panelled cuts allowed for great shaping and the use of block colours and trim detailing in contrast tones that highlighted the panel cuts. Multiple functional pockets, zip fronts and ribbed waists also showed off Raeburn’s flare for functional fashion, he does not simply decorate his clothing he solves problems and innovates through fashion. Aside from outerwear there were great separates including tailored shorts, relaxed leg jeans, tees and rugby tops. Another strong and creative collection.

Spring | Meadham Kirchhoff SS13

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Homme Mode MKirchhoff SS13g
Meadham Kirchhoff brought their hippy hobo styling to LCM today with a layered, texture rich collection full of print and colour. The presentation setting, a ‘squat style’ flat full of make shift beds, pizza boxes and well loved arm chairs. The models wore gentlemanly striped shorts and chinos teamed with long line floral shirts over polo necks and clashing printed tees worn over one another. A chiffon like dress worn over slim jeans in shades of blue and gold was one of the more extravagant pieces. High tops in highlighter tones of blue, yellow and pink sealed off the look that often included shell suit style tracksuit bottoms. An eclectic collection that relied on styling to add a more avant garde element, however when stripped back to key separates there were several wearable and commercial pieces.

Spring | Margaret Howell SS13

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Homme Mode MHowell SS13a

It was back to basics at Margaret Howell. Pants were basic slacks, either rolled up or ankle length, shorts were cut off right at the knee and kept wide. Shirts were clean cut, short sleeved v-necks, long sleeve knit, or crisp short sleeve button downs. Margaret’s colour scheme featured army green, khaki, and many shades of navy. This was definitely a “man’s” collection – catering to the men who like to shop maybe at most twice a year; purchasing great quality trousers, basic shirts, and a few jackets to mix and match throughout the season. While Margaret’s collection isn’t groundbreaking or reinventing the wheel she certainly has remained quite consistent with her offerings and keeps her customer coming back for more.

Spring | A Child of the Jago SS13

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A Child Of The Jago005
A Child of the Jago showed their Spring 2013 collection through the medium of an intimate presentation, set in House of St. Barnabas, Soho. ┬áIn reflection of the location, this season we see a more casual approach – soft, lose fabrics, worn fabrics in washed out, muted colours . We saw a palette of navy, biscuit and mushroom with bursts of pillar box red in hats, jackets and collars, whilst he main theme of the collection was the ‘dalston laundry bag’ prints – jackets and accessories were finished off with a reworked, laundry-chic check print. A fabulous range of bowler hats and felt caps rounded off the youthfully rebellious collection perfectly.