2013 | May | Page 2

Rick Owens Fall 2012

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For Fall there was something sinister that crept over the beginning of the Rick Owens collection.

There’s normally something dark at every Rick Owens collection but the sense of foreboding in the first few looks, with their covered faces – courtesy of a few hole-y head caps – and bulky, shapeless long robes, seemed before untapped. This certainly wasn’t the singular thrust of the collection though, as looks quickly moved on to a more shapely silhouette, still with lengths grazing the floor. It wasn’t long though before the jacket him shot up, to a cropped length, and began to conversely lengthen at the collar.

If there was one main thrust of the collection – or even of the brand – it’s proportion. Owens includes a cropped hide jacket, with coats that can be described to be comparable to puffa coats with their round silhouettes, done in a short hair fur of course. Still in neutrals, paired with his wedge boots, Owens continues to push forward his cult of dark Parisienne luxury.

Gareth Pugh Fall 2012

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There was something… peculiar about the Gareth Pugh Fall 2012 collection. Yes, peculiar is the word, not off, but peculiar.

The first look, with it’s tight bodice and full, destroyed skirting was a bit startling but came well placed before a sculptural jacket, a Pugh staple. Two more black looks before shocks of fur. The material itself, first in a medium hair length and then shorter was also a bit of a shocker. Ill placed, no but most certainly at the very least, a shock nonetheless.

Silhouettes for Pugh’s Fall collection were draped on top with closely fitted bottoms, if present at all, with over the knee boots. Sculptural tweaks were added with shoulders peaking inches above the collar, and collars themselves raising to cover the mouth.

The collection, while not the strongest chapter in the growing book that is the Gareth Pugh brand, is certainly a new proposition for the designer.

Dries Van Noten Fall 2012

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Scarf prints ruled the show at Dries Van Noten this season. In collaboration with the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, chinese prints were abstracted and reworked, creating geometrics and turning every which way. Colours were bright and bold, and the clothes with their simple design, yet attention to detail made everything pretty wearable. A standout look was a black blazer with cranes billowing across the chest and cinched at the waist, paired with a full skirt, with a peep of geometric print peaking out. This was definitely a standout, amongst all the “china” oriented collections of late.

Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2012

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Fall 2012 for Dolce & Gabbana was simply a culmination.

Do you recall the Fall 2012 menswear collection with it’s guilded baroque subject? The idea was one of the basic tenants for this, womenswear collection. Combine that with some of the staples from their past few seasons, florals from Spring 2012 at Dolce and Spring 2011 at D&G, the white and black lace from Spring 2011, it all culminated in this collection. Even the ending – or well more actually portrayed as incorporation – of the D&G line was nodded to with the white shirt, spelling out the brand.

For this fall though women aren’t afraid of a little hip action. Gone are the sometimes slouch and boyish tuxedo inspired trousers and in their place are bubble skirts and form fitting floral printed dresses. Sheer bodices found shelter in nought but embroidered capes, cropped or full length, that obscured the womanly curves that were flaunted beneath.

Iceberg Fall 2012

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The Iceberg woman is not afraid of showing a bit of her wealth. The statement is abundantly clear with lush furs paired with sparking cocktail dresses, or even tee with leggings of the same material.

The color palette for the show was strong, and sure of it self; neutrals with a serene blue and orange to pump up the looks. Pieces were carefully mixed – a solid no-lapel blazer with leather leggings that buttoned down the side, the buttons a hold over from the blazer itself – to evoke the appropriate mood while still allowing viewers to envision the show styled a completely different way.

Moschino Fall 2012

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Who’s that gigolo on the street, with his hands in his pockets and his crocodile feet? No, it’s not Moschino’s latest offering to the catwalk but close. With a strong nod to Buffalo styling, this collection offers an exciting take on “Occasionwear”. Starting with a black and gold theme each model was equipped with an oversized wide brimmed hat. It soon had the heat turned up with bright colours as we saw poster paint yellows and blues hit the runway to a heavy beat. Quilted leathers and colour blocking red black and whites were enough to send Neneh Cherry into a fashion orgasm.

Sophisticated bumbags and feminine two-pieces sat alongside leather trousers and fluffy outerwear, showing us a fresh collection and easily one of my favourites.

Prada Fall 2012

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There’s always the problem of “where to start” when disecting a Prada collection – because that’s exactly what it is, a dissection. Do you start at the footwear, this season a combination of platform stilettos and flatforms, both modified to Miuccia’s liking; an alter in silhouette for the heel, that is now a bit concave, and what can only be amounted to a cutout for the flatform. Or do you start with the hair and make-up, bold looks in and of themselves, with long hair two toned, with drastic contrastic shades, hanging limp on the models.

To be quite honest though, my eyes were on the slivers of skin. There was one there at the middriff, caused by a cropped top with a skirt that was just high enough to cover the belly button but low enough that any movement of the hips revealed a cut of skin. And then there of course was another at the ankle, revealed by a cuffed and sometimes seemingly bedazzeled trouser, whether patterned or monochrome.

The “bedazzling” itself – of course said in the most complimentary of ways as there weren’t small ornaments familiar from our childhood days, but instead, larger statements that undoubtedly aded at least a bit of weight to the garments – crept up the leg, through the cropped jackets and onto the lapels of the looks, and even the white collars. And all of this said without even addressing the high waist.

As always Miuccia is probably speaking to something; a statement about the economy, a defiance of the times.. but no matter what she continues to turn out the same thing; everything that we want, just before we even know we want it.

Versace Fall 2012

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Just as you were about to panic that Rooney Mara might have been a flash in the pan for celebrity obsessed society, the breath taking alternative look shows longevity with the Versace Fall 2012 collection emulating her blunt fringe and hollow eyes. It is a stark comparison to use Mara’s character, Lisbeth, as inspiration for a usually highly feminine brand. That being said, the collection still brought a sexually dominate female to the runway with Donatella’s take on the Little Black Dress. Hourglass figures and raw attitude continue as Versace’s signature look with her latest Autumn Winter 12 Ready-To-Wear show in Milan. A clear gothic message shined threw with embellished Byzantine crosses and black velvet – quite the opposite to the pastel trend we have seen so many thrive off lately. Floor length dresses finished the show reminding us that nobody does chain mail like her. I imagine we’ll be seeing a lot of this hard, figure exaggerating look on the red carpet.

Blugirl Fall 2012

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Blugirl’s Fall/Winter RTW collection was a dazzling display of delightfully petite feministic pieces that featured staple stockings in various colors as the tone of the show varied from a modern take on formal wear in schoolgirl colors (navy, red and subtle touches of green) with leg-warmers, bright colored trench coats and cardigans. Then came a flourish of pastels in pearl pink skirts, dresses and fluffy earmuffs, baby blue faux-fur shrugs and light mint stockings. A flash of models in white stockings and luxurious cream fur knee high ug-boots graced the runway and glittery silver dresses cut just above the knee hid under large, lavish fur adorned coats each ensemble paired with an oversized burette. Black swept over the catwalk in the form of stunning evening wear with sparkly accents and sexy silhouette creating styles all paired with black ankle boots, fingerless elbow length gloves with studs and stockings.

A luxurious collection of delicate decadence, and eye-catching ensembles. Another great collection from Blugirl and we hope to see more fashion of this caliber next year at Milan fashion week.

Christopher Shannon Fall 2012

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This season Christopher Shannon presented us with a confrontational approach to consumerism and commercialism. In a colour scheme of barely black, white and grey we saw excessive branding in smart and carefully constructed streetwear. ’CHRISTOPHER SHANNON’ was printed boldly across the garments, we saw pieces made of shoulder tags, tickets and clips, a refreshing light hearted take on fashion today. Monochrome prints and tartan were combined with neatly tailored shirts and slim fit trousers / tracksuit bottoms, each look paying close attention to detail. A wearable east london vibe with a heavily branded sportswear twist.

Ashish Fall 2012

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The pre-show frenzy backstage at Ashish’s A/W 2012 collection was enough to set even the most hard hearted fashionista’s pulse racing. With fashion heavy hitter Anna Trevelyan styling, and Georgina Graham leading the makeup team, there was a palpable excitement in the air. The few glimpses of the rails that could be caught amongst the teeming throng of models, dressers and photographers were electrifying. Ashish’s signature sequins dazzled in the light in an array of technicolour hues. Anticipation was mounting.

And then, only very slightly behind schedule, it began. And it was sure worth the wait. Entitled ‘Bollywouldn’t', the collection was Ashish’s homage to “New Age, rainbows and Goa”, in the words of the designer himself. Acid House smiley faces, yin-yang motifs and oversize Buddhas appeared on sequinned shorts and dresses. The models stomped down the runway in rainbow flatform boots. Hare Krishna and tie-dye prints figured heavily. The whole show was just breathtaking, a psychedelic, trippy, hippie journey to fashion Nirvana with one of London’s most beloved designers.

Meadham Kirchoff Fall 2012

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There was so much going on at Meadham Kirchoff for Fall 2012, we don’t know where to start! As fun, busy and frankly mental as ever, Meadham and Kirchoff designed a visually stimulating collection that has yet again got everyone talking. Set up like an 80′s disco, with flashing lights and rainbow light displays, the models strutted down the catwalk in their colorfuly busy outfits whilst others threw glitter around. The designers said they were inspired by clubs that they’d like to go to, if such a club existed, and so created a fantasy atmosphere of a party everyone would want to be seen at! In terms of garments there was plenty of exciting pieces to take note of. Sequin boustiers and suits, thick stripey tights, dolly dresses, jackets and skirts made of tinsel, and lots of very wearable denim pieces. Masses of clashing prints and a rainbow colour scheme for a show dedicated to texture, colour and excitement.

Osman Fall 2012

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For Fall 2012, Osman Yousefzada bought in inspiration from the fall of the Ottoman Empire in the Balkans, as well as renowned photographer Albert Kahn, who captured the moment so beautifully. Opulence and decadence dominated the show – his simple yet classic silhouettes were a frequent feature, with the added extravagance of embroidered brocades and rich fabrics. We saw gowns with daring thigh-high slits, oversized sleeves, metallic detailing and elegantly cut dresses with hemlines strictly below the knee, whilst a rich colour scheme of deep red, black, white and lime green mixed in with shimmering metallics made the collection even more glamourous.

Erdem Fall 2012

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This season we saw a new side to Erdem – a sexier, firmer take on Erdem Moralioğlu’s classic feminine cuts for Fall 2012. As the models sauntered down the bright, day lit catwalk with their fresh faces and neatly parted hair, a trend of knee length slim cut dresses began to take form. In a colour palette of black, violet and neon green on sexy lace prints, the use of high necks and leather gloves gave the collection a dominant feel, contrasting perfectly against the feminine silhouettes of Erdem’s signature cocoon coats and shift dresses. The collection developed into busier, darker prints, eventually embracing a sensual black lace and a stunning printed violet, black and white finale gown to keep us all remembering.

Acne Fall 2012

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Jonny Johansson, the mastermind behind our beloved Acne, pulled out yet another intriguing and visually stimulating collection for Autumn Winter 2012. Johansson’s inspiration stemmed from the work of photographer André Kertész, erotic sculptor Hans Bellmer, and painter Hanneline Røgeberg, all of whom closely studied the human body. Distortion was therefore a repeated theme throughout the show – sculpted dresses, cinched waists on oversized outerwear, arms purposely hovered inches from the waistline, cropped heavy knits and jackets and emphasis on rounded shoulders. The use of texture, such as the rippled orange high necked sweater that somewhat resembled a human brain and the small pieces of organ shaped fabric that all together constructed a flesh coloured dress, remained largely in context with the theme of the show. Muted shades of pastels were mounted against black leather, whilst flesh and ox blood were continuous throughout the palette, again linking in with the intriguingly strange, human body obsessed silhouette Johansson has created. We can’t knock Acne for sticking to their roots and still producing the denim that they are so well known for, and we applaud them for upping their game and taking it to the next level.

Prophetik Fall 2012

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Jeff Garner of Prophetik showed at the off schedule venue, Vauxhall Fashion Scout. Accompanied by live music the ethical collection of historically inspired pieces was well tailored and strongly referenced, think of a fashionable version of Downton Abbey. White evening gowns in lace and softly pleated silk were given a modern twist with exposed zips and jackets were neatly waisted and utilised corset back detailing to create a form fitting silhouette. Leg of mutton sleeve, origami structured shoulders, peplums and ruffles showed off Garner’s eye for detailing. The collection combined men’s and women’s wear with tartan kilts, frock coats and tail coats for the boys, again with sharp shaping, military detailing and heavy embroidery and patchwork for added detail. The final phase of women’s wear was gorgeous with apron inspired backless dresses with full skater skirts in gold jacquard silk. The finale dress, a feathered train, with military buttoned bodice was suitably dramatic and historical a perfect end for Garner’s show.

Image Diary | Elisa Palomino Fall 2012

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Elisa Palomino2
Composed of a variation of prints, colors and materials, Beth Alderson shoots the Elisa Palomino Fall 2012 show.

Jaspar Conran Fall 2012

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Jaspar Conran’s signature has always been timeless, contemporary British style and his Fall 2012 showing was no exception. Ladylike hemlines on princess coats and cocktail dresses, structured handbags, sensible heels: the whole collection was a study in class. Every look was also a study in monochrome, every component of an outfit a total match in hue, right down to the tights and shoes, in an autumnal selection of colours from burnt ochre to bitter chocolate. The only nods to frivolity were to be found in the use of texture: the odd smattering of sequins or feathers which breathed a bit of life into what could have been a very staid collection.

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