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Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2012

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Fall 2012 for Dolce & Gabbana was simply a culmination.

Do you recall the Fall 2012 menswear collection with it’s guilded baroque subject? The idea was one of the basic tenants for this, womenswear collection. Combine that with some of the staples from their past few seasons, florals from Spring 2012 at Dolce and Spring 2011 at D&G, the white and black lace from Spring 2011, it all culminated in this collection. Even the ending – or well more actually portrayed as incorporation – of the D&G line was nodded to with the white shirt, spelling out the brand.

For this fall though women aren’t afraid of a little hip action. Gone are the sometimes slouch and boyish tuxedo inspired trousers and in their place are bubble skirts and form fitting floral printed dresses. Sheer bodices found shelter in nought but embroidered capes, cropped or full length, that obscured the womanly curves that were flaunted beneath.

Iceberg Fall 2012

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The Iceberg woman is not afraid of showing a bit of her wealth. The statement is abundantly clear with lush furs paired with sparking cocktail dresses, or even tee with leggings of the same material.

The color palette for the show was strong, and sure of it self; neutrals with a serene blue and orange to pump up the looks.  Pieces were carefully mixed –  a solid no-lapel blazer with leather leggings that buttoned down the side, the buttons a hold over from the blazer itself – to evoke the appropriate mood while still allowing viewers to envision the show styled a completely different way.

Moschino Fall 2012

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Who’s that gigolo on the street, with his hands in his pockets and his crocodile feet? No, it’s not Moschino’s latest offering to the catwalk but close. With a strong nod to Buffalo styling, this collection offers an exciting take on “Occasionwear”. Starting with a black and gold theme each model was equipped with an oversized wide brimmed hat. It soon had the heat turned up with bright colours as we saw poster paint yellows and blues hit the runway to a heavy beat. Quilted leathers and colour blocking red black and whites were enough to send Neneh Cherry into a fashion orgasm.

Sophisticated bumbags and feminine two-pieces sat alongside leather trousers and fluffy outerwear, showing us a fresh collection and easily one of my favourites.

Prada Fall 2012

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There’s always the problem of “where to start” when disecting a Prada collection – because that’s exactly what it is, a dissection.  Do you start at the footwear, this season a combination of platform stilettos and flatforms, both modified to Miuccia’s liking; an alter in silhouette for the heel, that is now a bit concave, and what can only be amounted to a cutout for the flatform. Or do you start with the hair and make-up, bold looks in and of themselves, with long hair two toned, with drastic contrastic shades, hanging limp on the models.

To be quite honest though, my eyes were on the slivers of skin. There was one there at the middriff, caused by a cropped top with a skirt that was just high enough to cover the belly button but low enough that any movement of the hips revealed a cut of skin.  And then there of course was another at the ankle, revealed by a cuffed and sometimes seemingly bedazzeled trouser, whether patterned or monochrome.

The “bedazzling” itself – of course said in the most complimentary of ways as there weren’t small ornaments familiar from our childhood days, but instead, larger statements that undoubtedly aded at least a bit of weight to the garments – crept up the leg, through the cropped jackets and onto the lapels of the looks, and even the white collars. And all of this said without even addressing the high waist.

As always Miuccia is probably speaking to something; a statement about the economy, a defiance of the times.. but no matter what she continues to turn out the same thing; everything that we want, just before we even know we want it.

Versace Fall 2012

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Just as you were about to panic that Rooney Mara might have been a flash in the pan for celebrity obsessed society, the breath taking alternative look shows longevity with the Versace Fall 2012 collection emulating her blunt fringe and hollow eyes. It is a stark comparison to use Mara’s character, Lisbeth, as inspiration for a usually highly feminine brand. That being said, the collection still brought a sexually dominate female to the runway with Donatella’s take on the Little Black Dress. Hourglass figures and raw attitude continue as Versace’s signature look with her latest Autumn Winter 12 Ready-To-Wear show in Milan. A clear gothic message shined threw with embellished Byzantine crosses and black velvet – quite the opposite to the pastel trend we have seen so many thrive off lately. Floor length dresses finished the show reminding us that nobody does chain mail like her. I imagine we’ll be seeing a lot of this hard, figure exaggerating look on the red carpet.

Blugirl Fall 2012

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Blugirl’s Fall/Winter RTW collection was a dazzling display of delightfully petite feministic pieces that featured staple stockings in various colors as the tone of the show varied from a modern take on formal wear in schoolgirl colors (navy, red and subtle touches of green) with leg-warmers, bright colored trench coats and cardigans. Then came a flourish of pastels in pearl pink skirts, dresses and fluffy earmuffs, baby blue faux-fur shrugs and light mint stockings. A flash of models in white stockings and luxurious cream fur knee high ug-boots graced the runway and glittery silver dresses cut just above the knee hid under large, lavish fur adorned coats each ensemble paired with an oversized burette. Black swept over the catwalk in the form of stunning evening wear with sparkly accents and sexy silhouette creating styles all paired with black ankle boots, fingerless elbow length gloves with studs and stockings.

A luxurious collection of delicate decadence, and eye-catching ensembles. Another great collection from Blugirl and we hope to see more fashion of this caliber next year at Milan fashion week.

Christopher Shannon Fall 2012

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This season Christopher Shannon presented us with a confrontational approach to consumerism and commercialism. In a colour scheme of barely black, white and grey we saw excessive branding in smart and carefully constructed streetwear.  ‘CHRISTOPHER SHANNON’ was printed boldly across the garments, we saw pieces made of shoulder tags, tickets and clips, a refreshing light hearted take on fashion today. Monochrome prints and tartan were combined with neatly tailored shirts and slim fit trousers / tracksuit bottoms, each look paying close attention to detail. A wearable east london vibe with a heavily branded sportswear twist.

Meadham Kirchoff Fall 2012

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There was so much going on at Meadham Kirchoff for Fall 2012, we don’t know where to start! As fun, busy and frankly mental as ever, Meadham and Kirchoff  designed a visually stimulating collection that has yet again got everyone talking. Set up like an 80’s disco, with flashing lights and rainbow light displays, the models strutted down the catwalk in their colorfuly busy outfits whilst others threw glitter around. The designers said they were inspired by clubs that they’d like to go to, if such a club existed, and so created a fantasy atmosphere of a party everyone would want to be seen at! In terms of garments there was plenty of exciting pieces to take note of. Sequin boustiers and suits, thick stripey tights, dolly dresses, jackets and skirts made of tinsel, and lots of very wearable denim pieces. Masses of clashing prints and a rainbow colour scheme for a show dedicated to texture, colour and excitement.

Osman Fall 2012

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For Fall 2012, Osman Yousefzada bought in inspiration from the fall of the Ottoman Empire in the Balkans, as well as renowned photographer Albert Kahn, who captured the moment so beautifully. Opulence and decadence dominated the show – his simple yet classic silhouettes were a frequent feature, with the added extravagance of embroidered brocades and rich fabrics. We saw gowns with daring thigh-high slits, oversized sleeves, metallic detailing and elegantly cut dresses with hemlines strictly below the knee, whilst a rich colour scheme of deep red, black, white and lime green mixed in with shimmering metallics made the collection even more glamourous.

Erdem Fall 2012

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This season we saw a new side to Erdem – a sexier, firmer take on Erdem Moralioğlu’s classic feminine cuts for Fall 2012. As the models sauntered down the bright, day lit catwalk with their fresh faces and neatly parted hair, a trend of knee length slim cut dresses began to take form. In a colour palette of black, violet and  neon green on sexy lace prints, the use of high necks and leather gloves gave the collection a dominant feel, contrasting perfectly against the feminine silhouettes  of Erdem’s signature cocoon coats and shift dresses. The collection developed into busier, darker prints, eventually embracing a sensual black lace and a stunning printed violet, black and white finale gown to keep us all remembering.

Acne Fall 2012

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Jonny Johansson, the mastermind behind our beloved Acne, pulled out yet another intriguing and visually stimulating collection for Autumn Winter 2012. Johansson’s inspiration stemmed from the work of photographer André Kertész, erotic sculptor Hans Bellmer, and painter Hanneline Røgeberg, all of whom closely studied the human body. Distortion was therefore a repeated theme throughout the show – sculpted dresses, cinched waists on oversized outerwear, arms purposely hovered inches from the waistline, cropped heavy knits and jackets and emphasis on rounded shoulders. The use of texture, such as the rippled orange high necked sweater that somewhat resembled a human brain and the small pieces of organ shaped fabric that all together constructed a flesh coloured dress, remained largely in context with the theme of the show. Muted shades of pastels were mounted against black leather, whilst flesh and ox blood were continuous throughout the palette, again linking in with the intriguingly strange, human body obsessed silhouette Johansson has created. We can’t knock Acne for sticking to their roots and still producing the denim that they are so well known for, and we applaud them for upping their game and taking it to the next level.

Prophetik Fall 2012

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Jeff Garner of Prophetik showed at the off schedule venue, Vauxhall Fashion Scout. Accompanied by live music the ethical collection of historically inspired pieces was well tailored and strongly referenced, think of a fashionable version of Downton Abbey. White evening gowns in lace and softly pleated silk were given a modern twist with exposed zips and jackets were neatly waisted and utilised corset back detailing to create a form fitting silhouette. Leg of mutton sleeve, origami structured shoulders, peplums and ruffles showed off Garner’s eye for detailing. The collection combined men’s and women’s wear with tartan kilts, frock coats and tail coats for the boys, again with sharp shaping, military detailing and heavy embroidery and patchwork for added detail. The final phase of women’s wear was gorgeous with apron inspired backless dresses with full skater skirts in gold jacquard silk. The finale dress, a feathered train, with military buttoned bodice was suitably dramatic and historical a perfect end for Garner’s show.

Todd Lynn Fall 2012

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We were told to expect ‘Corrupted Elegance’  for Todd Lynn Autumn/ Winter 2012 collection, and thats exactly what we got. Beautifully structured tailoring was kept on edge with flashes of black on black, fur and  leather gloves, completed with a finale look of a dominatrix style high necked leather dress. Beginning with muted tones, soft lace and silk, the collection gradually transcended into a sexier, dominant style that felt some what clinical. Staying true to the signature Todd Lynn aesthetic, the collection remained well structural and futuristic.The colour palette reflected classic autumnal shades – bronze, burnt orange, chocolate brown, blood red and teal blue. Serious yet intimidatingly sexy, the models wore a smokey eye and hair was cleanly scraped behind in a middle parting.

Felder Felder Fall 2012

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This season Felder Felder presented us with ‘Blonde’. Fear not, brunettes were also welcome on the catwalk. This Autumn/ Winter 2012 collection met the nostalgic past with a new, uncertain age by combining rock and cave techno prints and a palette inspired by mineral colours. The designers paired up with Triumph and Kat Maconie, creator of the fantastic metallic platform shoes.

The duo created a look reminiscent of 90’s grunge, with a more grown up, feminine twist. Maxi skirts were slit to the thighs, skater skirts and hotpants were teamed with a thick shaggy knits and chunky platforms. A constant cinched waist meant the silhouette remained sexy and sensual, but with the signature Felder edge.
The colour palette began with an array of nudes – camel and creamed cappuccino mixed with stunning prints. Gradually developing into bright tie dye prints for a more futuristic fee, random bursts of pillar box red and shocking orange were also tied in perfectly.With a variety of fabrics and heavy use of texture throughout the collection added great depth and vibrancy – hand knits, leather, fur and crepe were teamed with embellished metal chains and plenty of fringing. Slowly shimmying down the catwalk to a pumping techno remix, the models rocked wavey hair and nude make up to round up the fabulously glammed-grunge collection.

House of Holland Fall 2012

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True to form, House of Holland produced yet another fun, vibrant collection for Autumn/ Winter 2012. Every season we see a great progression in Henry’s work, and as we say goodbye to slogan tees, we say hello exquisite tailoring and seventies sportswear silhouettes! Holland described his collection as “Mork and Mindy do the Tour de France.”

Oversized hound prints, flared leather trousers, stripey leggings and bright fur coats kept the fun factor going, whilst a more elegant, classic side to House of Holland was revealed through beautifully fitted trouser suits and tailored dresses.  80’s style cycle caps were kept at a constant, flipped back with his signature ‘Ride it’ slogans imprinted along the brim. We like that about Holland, he may be progressing but he doesn’t forget his roots.Bursting with bright primary colours, the colour scheme ranged from pillar box red to metallic and royal blues, with hints of violet, fuscia and canary yellow seeping through.

Cleverly mixing soon to be megastar Azaelia Banks – 212 into the soundtrack and with another front row of  famous faces, we see a very bright future for Mr Henry Holland.

Bora Aksu Fall 2012

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Bora took a new direction For Fall 2012 as his fierce fashion warriors were replaced with softer and more feminine pieces. It was also Aksu’s first foray into print which drew inspiration from textured wallpaper of the 1950’s.

The collection opened with prism knit dresses before merging the knit with silk chiffon, a staple fabric for Bora. This was worked in alongside season appropriate wool coats, cropped tux inspired jackets and swinging caplets.

There was a definite Parisian theme to the show from the soundtrack to the lace headpieces that crept over the models faces. The palette of powder pink, mink grey, fuchsia and orange combined soft and bold tones to perfection – especially a swinging baby doll dress in the palest shade of pink that was dip dyed in bright orange; it shouldn’t of worked but it most definitely did. Flashes of pink toned copper added a flash of metallic that has so far been seen in other shows here in London, toning down our love of sparkle from past seasons.

Dresses and skirts worked on combining knit underskirts overlayed with printed tulle that created interesting and innovative textures. Curved sleeve detailing allowed Aksu to create statement draped shoulders and sleeves that juxtaposed perfectly with the less structured floaty silhouettes. Sweet heart neck seam details pulled us back to the sugary sweetness that is Aksu AW12.

A new direction for Aksu, with more commercial pieces teamed with his usual dramatic flare and a gamble that definitely played off as everyone couldn’t wait to discuss the ‘new Bora look’.