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Fall | Kenzo x Vans FW12

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Following the massive success of their Spring collaboration, Kenzo and Vans have collaborated on a follow-up fall collection.

The collection follows the same guidelines as the previous collection – using the classic Vans skater shoe with prints from Kenzo, this time with a vibrant mix of floral and horizontal stripes instead of the single mesh print from the previous collection.

As far as collaborations go, most just put emphasis on designs from one of the brands and come off as designs from higher end brands at the price point and quality level of lower end labels. This collaboration however does what few do, it show the most well known aspects of both brands by combining the simplicity of the Vans skater shoe and originality of Kenzo’s prints. The Kenzo x Vans collection looks like an original Vans product with influences from Kenzo which makes it more appealing to both brands customers.

This follow up collection, available from mid-August will no doubt prove to be a massive success for both brands and introduce a new type of customer for both brands, with the young edgy Vans customer for Kenzo and the cool, fashion forward Kenzo customer for Vans.

Spring | Comme des Garçon Homme Plus SS 2013

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Comme des Garçon, under direction of designer Rei Kawakubo went back to their rebellious, punk heritage for Spring 2013.

The collection was mainly made up of loose fitting tailored pants and shorts with long and short sleeve shirts. Solid blocks of white, black, grey, navy and gold were also shown along with prints which were in turn paired with the corresponding shirts and pants. The collection had definite British hard rock aspects to it, such as the use of Scottish tartan, camouflage, small black and white leopard print and black and white stripes were used. However, it wasn’t until the end of the collection when the models removed their coats, that you could really see the full potential of the collection.

The majority of the coats were straight fitted single and double-breasted knee, half calf and ankle length. Some also had hoods, white piping, panels of contrasting prints or fabrics and Asian inspired details, such as Mao collars, abstract calligraphy and buttons.

Black and white sneakers with blue or pink laces and black brogues with white polka dots, black and white checks, and colours and print to correspond with the prints and colours shown through the collection where shown. Accessories consisted of black or studded headbands and long white polka dot socks.

For the Spring 2013 season, Comme des Garcon gave us a simpler collection combined with what they do best – a rebellious, edgy collection that will surely make a statement without making you look like a punk-rock wannabe.

Spring | Kenzo SS13

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With only two collections under their belt – Kenzo has already shown us what the Kenzo look is, with their continued use of big, bold prints and bright colours.

For Spring 2013, the collection had a distinct jungle feel, with big animal prints in jewel tones, tiger stripes and camouflage – which is being seen more and more for this season – along with a variety of other prints were shown.

Bold colours such as moss green, yellow, orange, blues, rusted brown, khaki, black and white were mixed together with prints, making the collection quirky and interesting.

The collection was made up of loose, oversized pants, along with slim fit pants and shorts, sweatshirts, coloured leather jackets as well as safari jackets and coats along with few tailored items and short and long sleeve shirts.

Sunglasses, small, binocular style and square frame bags, caps and deer-stalker hats all added to the original inspiration, with shoes being a mix of thick strapped sandals, printed skater shoes, monk strap, brogues and slip on loafers adding of diversity to the collection.

Kenzo may still be new, with only two seasons collection shown, but they have already proven themselves with their sheer creativity and will continue to inspire us with their boldness and diversity for many seasons to come.

Spring | Juun J SS13

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With only 5 years since the brand was first established, Juun J has definitely taken the menswear industry  by storm with his minimalistic style and his play on traditional menswear and proportions.

In typical Juun J style, colour was left to a minimum, with a palate of mainly neutral black, white, grey and khaki with sapphire blue making a minor appearance and added bright orange details used towards the end of the collection.

The collection was largely made up of a mix of oversized pieces including pants, jackets, coats and jerseys. There were also impeccably tailored knee length shirts, blazers, shorts and loose fitting pants.

As usual, the collection was not big on prints –  with only black suits with thin white vertical stripes being shown and a coat in bright oranges, black, grey and white vertical stripes – but the mix of fabrics, textures and details in the collection made it interesting and fresh.

One orange, rectangle frame bag and peaked caps to match the minimalistic colours were the only accessories shown, with one style of slip on sneaker in the same colour.

Spring | Dries Van Noten SS13

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Many designers find it difficult to find believable prints for men. So for Spring 2013, Dries Van Noten went with the most classic of masculine prints – camouflage.

Camouflage in the classic green, associated with the military, was used but Dries also chose an edgier purple, and orange with shades of blush pink and blue that also made up the palette for the collection, in loose fitting pants, shorts, jackets, shirts, vests and T-Shirts. The print was also mixed together with bold blocks of colour, such as orange, white and purple. Camouflage was not the only print used, with green and purple tartan making a feature in blazers, shirts and pants.

The collection also had added notes of athleticism with fencing style padded jackets and vests in all white or with blocks of purple and orange. Sheer knitwear in solid blue and cream or in multi-coloured abstract designs added a youthful aspect to go with the contemporary camouflage. A range of other fabrics, softer prints and colours were also used that took the edge and intimidation away from the majorly bold prints of the collection. Square fame and round lens sunglasses and weekender style bags made up the accessories and varying styles of sandals in a range of colours were shown.

Overall, the collection was mainly made up of loose fitting – tailored items, a trend that has been seen in collections throughout the Spring 2013 collections.

Spring | Moncler Gamme Bleu SS13

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Thom Browne’s third collection for Moncler Gamme Bleu featured a distinct nautical theme for Spring/Summer 2013.

The collection was divided into 3 distinct groups. First was a selection of looks in all white; clean and fresh. Bright red and navy blue made up the second part of the collection and featured navy inspired details such as oversized collars and contrasting white edging and cuffs. Prints were also used in this section, with gingham, stripes and nautical flags. The last group comprised of looks featuring white, black and yellow that created a fisherman style look.

Looks comprised mainly of loosely tailored shorts, pants and jackets giving the collection a ready-to-wear feel. Capes with the Moncler tri-colour detail and hooded jackets made a statement along with lifejacket style waistcoats. As always with his collections, Thom’s attention to details such as using thick straps, rope, white edging, cuffs and oversized collars was impeccable and remained fully committed to the original inspiration.

Accessories included unstructured, wide brimmed fishermen hats, knee length socks and loafers in colours to match the collection finished of the looks.

The collection was fresh, inspirational and unique without straying too far from Moncler’s heritage as a luxury sportswear house.

Resort | Salvatore Ferragamo Men’s RS13

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For their Resort 2013 collection, Salvatore Ferragamo stayed true to their roots by creating a classic collection for the modern gentleman.

The majority of the collection had a staple palate of blue, red and orange that contrasted against the other, more classic neutral colours of Khaki, navy and brown with prints kept mainly to the knitwear and scarves in the same palate. Accessories were kept to the minimum, such as classic sunglasses, ties, polka dot and striped scarves, weekender bags, and belts to match the recurring colour scheme.

Attention was mainly in small details, such as hidden details and contrasts in colour, textures and patterns like adding red or polka dots for the lining of a khaki trench coat or navy jacket and folding the pants or jeans just above the ankle to show off the iconic Ferragamo shoes, revealing the contrasting blue hem underneath.

It can be said that this collection, is not necessarily “fashion forward”, but is for the more well established man, more interested in looking presentable than En Vogue and was clean, simple collection showing something with nothing unnecessary or superfluous.

Resort | Givenchy Homme RS13

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With his unique take on the iconic masculine wardrobe; Riccardo Tisci presents a collection for Givenchy Homme Resort 2013, which revisits his iconic take on menswear Spring classics.

The collection showed a palate of pastel pink, green, navy and black with green and white paisley being a major feature with plaid and thick horizontal stripes also being shown in smaller amounts.

Being Givenchy, no collection would be complete without big, bold prints and Riccardo’s signature stars. Don’t be fooled by the feminine sounding colours and prints though; the collection has subtle influences and makes reference to Boy Scout uniforms and small military soldiers. The collection also has the sense of being completely ready for the streets by making use of an urban sportswear silhouette and included everything from shorts, bomber jackets, shirts with short and long sleeves and a range of more sleek and clean cut tailored looks.

Kenzo for Vans

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Design collaborations are nothing new in the Fashion Industry, from Marni for H&M, Mary Katrantzou for Longchamp and now Kenzo for Vans.

“Vans is one of the iconic American brands and we liked the idea of infusing this bit of American style into the house of Kenzo,”
 says Kenzo Creative Directors Humberto Leon and Carol Lim.

The shoes reflect the best of both brands, featuring Kenzo’s quirky fishnet prints in a colour palette featuring mainly bold red, blue, green and white in several different designs, inspired by their own Spring Summer 2012 collection and Van’s iconic skate shoe, creating  an effortlessly cool shoe, ideal for summer and bringing together the best parts of French and American Ready-to-Wear.

The collection will be available from mid May, June and July and are on sale from Kenzo stores, Kenzo.com and at select retail partners including Opening Ceremony, Colette, Harvey Nichols, Bosco Milan, Lane Crawford and IT. All shoes are on sale at €90 for men and women.

Visit: www.kenzo.com and www.vans.com for more information.

Mary Katrantzou for Longchamp

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With only 4 years since her first Ready to Wear collection shown, but already having collections available in over 60 stores worldwide, collaborations with Topshop and Christian Louboutin, and work featured in the likes of Vogue and Dazed & Confused, it should come as no surprise that French leather and luxury Goods company, Longchamp has chosen to collaborate with Greek born and London based designer Mary Katrantzou for their new series of hand and travel bags.

Zadig & Voltaire: Spring/Summer 2012 Lookbook

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Zadig & Voltaire makes clothes for those wanting a new type of luxury. Luxury does not just mean owning something expensive and covered in diamonds, but the quality in the materials and workmanship that goes into every product. Zadig & Voltaire introduces new materials and products to the market looking for high quality casual clothing without the price of some of the ready to wear lines from the more exclusive Fashion Houses.

Lonely Kids Club

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Lonely Kids Club is a boutique T-Shirt label, operating out of Sydney Australia. The name originates from two friends who were hopeless romantics and only single ones out of their group of friends and hence this personal joke emerged into a T-shirt brand built on the purpose of making clothes personalized again.

Rynshu Fall 2012

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For his Fall-Winter collection Rynshu Hashimoto’s predominate colour was black, shown in coats, blazers, jackets and pants. Black and white horizontal stripes were also a big feature, shown as an accent on sleeves of coats as well as on a dress and a two-piece suit of a waistcoat and trousers. Pants shown in the collection were a mix of tailored and harem pants with a dropped crotch that were baggy on the thigh and then fitted from below the knee, somewhat resembling those worn in the 1920’s.

Gold was also a major feature in the collection that provided a strong contrast against the black and was shown in the form of pants, shirts and blazers. Other colours such as red and white were also shown, along with a few prints and patterned elements.

Simple, small details added a lot to this collection, such as the inclusion of the Rynshu “R”, shown in a few of the jackets, as well as oversized/wool collars.

Simple accessories such as black straps around the neck, hats, round framed sunglasses and scarves were shown and calf length boots were mainly shown on male models, whilst the majority of the womenswear was shown with knee-length boots.

Diesel Black Gold Fall 2012

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For Fall/Winter 2012, Diesel Black Gold presented their very first exclusively menswear runway collection, and stayed true to its roots in providing us with a contemporary, “rocker chic” collection.

Black, was the predominant colour of the collection, with the occasional dash of colour, by way of a a deep plum velvet suit, pants or blazer or even a deep blue or indigo leather and fur coat. Thick, cable knit jerseys in burnt orange, deep indigo, and grey (some with brown leather or knitted sleeves) were also featured in the collection as well as simple black jerseys with textured sleeves and varied neck shapes.

Orange and black leather jackets and pants in black or brown leather created an effortlessly cool look. Three and two piece suits in brown and orange or navy and grey striped, denim blue, purple/grey and plum velvet created a sense of tailoring, but the choice of colour and fabric still kept the sense of edge Diesel Black are masters of.

Accessories were simple chains around the neck or attached to pockets, denim weekend bags and leather laptop bags. Boots in varying lengths in black or navy and zipper details on the jackets create a collection that can be expressive enough to express personal style.

Moncler Gamme Bleu Fall 2012

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For Fall/Winter 2012/2013, Thom Browne provided a collection that took Moncler back to its roots of high-end jackets and sportswear.

The collection started off showing models wearing jumpsuits in white or oxblood with contrasting details diagonally across or down the torso and sleeves were paired with helmets and protective eyewear. The collection then moved towards more everyday looks but the use of these colours, made this part of the collection seem more focused on sport, whereas from look 16, the collection used navy, black, white and grey and tartan in grey, denim blue and navy which made it seem more like street/urban wear.

Padding was a huge feature in the show, in double and single-breasted jackets of various lengths in navy, navy/denim blue tartan, lemon, oxblood, white and as well as shorts, harem style pants and scarfs. Tailored pants and shorts in grey and white tartan or pinstripes and white shirts with navy ties and turtleneck jerseys also formed the bases for the collection.

Accessories included helmets, protective eyewear, ski masks beanies, scarfs, two-toned knee length socks and helmets that gave the collection a feel of the world of extreme sports. High-top sneakers were the shoe of choice, shown in white, oxblood, navy and black.

The tri-colour diagonal stripe across the chest that was shown in the Spring Summer 2012 collection was featured again, which has become synonymous with Moncler’s French and sports heritage.

Neil Barrett Fall 2012

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For his Fall/Winter 2012-2013, Neil Barrett gave us a collection of urban inspired, tailored outfits. Oversized turtlenecks in grey, lemon, violet, oxblood and black characterised the collection. Pants were tailored and slim fit with an athletic inspired detail, much like track pants with synched in ankles or cropped at the ankle to exposed the socks. Stiff leather ankle high shoes (in camel, tan, brown, and black) were paired with double and single-breasted pea and knee-length coats in the same colours and came with a looser, oversized fit on the torso, giving the collection a modern feel. Fitted single breasted blazers, waistcoats, jackets with hoods, along with padded jackets, leather jackets and hoodies were also featured, giving an athletic/active wear feel to the collection.

Neil Barrett’s collection merged active wear and tailoring and created not only a cohesive collection, but also clothing for the sporty, and sophisticated man.