TWO MINUTES WITH OLIVER SPENCER
Tag : Fiasco
Influences for Katie Eary’s collection this season come from anatomy via the glossy work of contemporary artist Jeff Koons. These are translated through texture, colour and print throughout the collection with giant tube knit brain textures stitched to knitwear and neoprene appliquéd with organ prints to get under our skin.
TIGER OF SWEDEN
As always, the suit was at the core of each look by Tiger of Sweden, as proved by Tarun Nijjer @ D1 Models, who took to the catwalk in a simple, well made grey two piece – a classic offering from the brand. Post – punk details were key- trousers were worn slightly higher at the waist and tapered at the ankle.
A very literal reference of the wild west, Xander took a famously SS trend and made it ready for the harsh climates of the winter. Cowboy style boots were made almost wellington like adding the ever popular utilitarian theme to the collection. Where double denim would be popular in the summer, Zhou envisioned double leather looks taking off in the Autumn and offered them in a range of colours including navy, tan, black and white.
SANKUANZ PRESENTED BY GQ CHINA
Following on from a successful Spring show, GQ China presented Sankuanz at London Collections to showcase the AW15 range on the closing day of the shows.
Effortlessness was key with grooming for the Casely-Hayford AW15 line. Skin was clean, polished and dewey (using La Roche -Posey) – mirroring the brands high end luxury ethos. Hair was worn mostly short at the sides and roughly swept back with Bumble & Bumble styling products.
Set in the opulent Rosewood Hotel, the Duchamp presentation welcomes it’s guests to the sound of a grand piano playing softly in the corner accompanied by the dulcet tones of a beautiful singer in a glittering dress, setting the sophisticated tone, which is carried through their AW15 collection.
Grungy, tousled beach hair, expertly crafted by the Fudge art team, and dewy pale skin created a perfectly groomed army of models for the James Long aw15 show. Circus Life by Fufanu Music set the tone for the show, made up of interesting combinations of fabric and a raw yet glamorous aesthetic.
BAARTMANS AND SIEGEL
In an unexpected twist on the labels usual urban tailoring, the aw15 offerings from Baartmans Siegel was an adventurous take on street ski-wear. Apres outerwear gave the collection a grand silhouette which remained masculine and bold when teamed with injections of mustard, red and green seen in the track style garments.
Emerging from an unusually calm backstage area, the harem of models walking in Raeburn Aw15 show presented the latest offerings from one of the most anticipated shows of the season. Hair was worn sea swept back and skin was flawless and frost- kissed.
AGI & SAM
Initial inspirations this season sprung from a visit home to Yorkshire for Agi, where his mother reminded him of a collection entitled “The Coolman Collection” that he’d designed at the tender age of four. This sparked a childhood revival, which led to the design duo spending their research time in primary schools with the students deconstructing garments and seeing how the children would put them back together.
Maharishi’s AW15 collection takes inspiration from the way of the ninja and quote “The Path To Stealth” in their collection title. Elongated silhouettes and dropped crotches are included throughout with additions of integrated accessories such as fitted hoods, face coverings and built-in mittens, all hinting towards the martial arts theme.
For this season’s collection, Lou Dalton has focused on the sensitivity of a man beneath his functional clothing. Aesthetic indications throughout the collection nod towards astronauts and aviation, and maintain the typical Dalton construction and functionality. Thunderbirds cartoon strips have been converted into playful prints covering merino wool knitwear in celebration of the Thunderbirds 50th Anniversary.
We’re all for creativity and craziness and plastic bags glued to people’s faces (see Christopher Shannon show), but it’s great to see something wearable at London Collections: Men once in a while, something that British brand Several do exceptionally well.
From the teaser shots that Shannon posted on his Instagram it was clear that carrier bags would feature somewhat in his collection. As the second model paraded down the catwalk it became apparent that the inspiration would be more literal than anticipated. Shannon’s signature sweatshirts sauntered through the audience whilst a mixture of carrier bags adorned them, and the models heads.