Tag : katharine polk
FIASCO New York Fashion Editor, Katharine Polk debuted her first collection under the name Houghton. Showing a range of whites and anything around that, the collection focused on the new age of evening wear. Not forgetting the traditional high glam expected in evening but most importantly understanding that the modern woman is not quite as dressed up.
Stella McCartney did was she does best, sent easy, wearable silhouettes that hang on the body down the runway one after another. McCartney didn’t let down and updated her Savile Row suit that fits to perfection. White silk pants topped with a men’s over-sized single button blazer over a light lace detailed top was simply chic. McCartney mixed up her suits and amped up her usual neutral and eggplant pallet with pops of vivid blue, green and maroon. Stella kept a good thing going from her FW11 collection that was filled with sexy cut out cocktail dresses and closed out SS12 with the same,this time trimmed in an updated baroque like detail, white swirly embroideries outlined cutouts on colorful pop art meets baroque-esque looks. Prints upon prints kept coming down the runway which was a nice change for a McCartney show and added a sweet mix to Stella’s simple silhouettes.
Metallic’s and over-sized Boyfriend Shirts layered they’re way down the runway at Diesel Black Gold Spring 2012. The traditionally, Rock n roll inspired line showed a softer side this Spring. An underlying theme of Boyfriend was evident throughout, whether it be the boyfriend blazer, the boyfriend over-sized button down or his motorcycle jacket. Styled creatively using the over-sized shirts with giant cuffs rolled and protruding from Jacket sleeves and beneath short shorts the look was layered and damn cool. Foil-like flared pants might be much for a lunch meeting for most but the metallic jade motorcycle Jacket with quilted shoulders is to die for. For the men, reflective pants aren’t as easy to pull off but the simple black leather moto jacket and sand colored trench are great staples. Loving the direction and unexpected parade of foil for spring from Diesel Black Gold.
Parkchoonoo, a sleeper collection but stunning and legit all around. at the end of NYFW Spring 2012, it has remained in my top 5 for the season. I got to the Parkchoomoo show with no expectations and when the first look hit the runway and instantly caught my attention with a white leather vest with shaped shoulders. Their was no detail overlooked. Its always that fine line of making a major statement on the runway and looking like a costume with clown make up. Parkchoonoo pushed it to the limit it worked and complimented the clothes like an accessory. The clothes had super unconventional silhouettes which kept your eye moving up and down the models body, like you wanted her to stay on the runway longer for you to study the looks. Never bored, and like a kid with a.d.d each time a model passed my eye jumping to the next look trying to figure out the construction, I was intrigued. a simple pallet with bursts of color, a tight and well edited collection, I have no complaints. Statement pieces like the jackets with slashed sleeves are easy to wear and super marketable between the sheer more editorial onsie and bandeau tops. I cant wait to get my hands on this chic, ethereal, tough girl look.
3.1 Phillip Lim showed an almost perfect collection at the end of NYFW. After seeing a a blur of color, everything from neon, to pastels, to bold color blocking, Lim showed a collection that seems to be “just right” gentle in silhouette and easy on the eyes he didn’t re-invent the wheel but went back to the classics and remade what has worked for years. Tailored in Light flouncy fabrics and a sherbert hue that wasn’t “in your face” he kept your attention with each look, reworked with modern details. The LBD is a light to the knee trapeze silhouette, a chic as hell column dress with blocked shoulder panels and a side slit, the statement piece- a long leather Black Vest and a White Coat with cut out lapels. Lim also worked the classic denim vest which transforms into a bag by zipping and snapping. The ease of the pants silhouette Lim repeats is key for spring and just hangs loosely and off the hip. Lim introduced an abstract print toward the end of the collection which seemed unnecessary and didn’t compliment the already strong and complete collection. Overall, I thought this was an uber-chic and refreshing collection that is super wearable and hits all the points.
Rachel Zoe presented her Spring 2012 Collection on day 5 of NYFW. A line to see the celebrity stylist turn designer’s spring collection wrapped through a lobby and down a hall way to 39th St. where photographers waited to catch a pic of Joe Zee, Fern Mallis, and every stylish editor from magazines like W and Elle. I had 2 shows at 4pm and had to choose between Rachel and Vlov knowing that Rachel Zoe would definitely be the one to miss. En-route to Zoe, my blackberry was streaming with tweets, with the who’s who of fashion making appearances at the Zoe show. Once I arrived at the presentation to see the collection, this is what I found.
I walked along the 3 walls of models, the long side of daywear where I found a mix of prints, a white shorts suit, black blazers topping off multiple looks, some animal prints, mixed with abstract colorful prints and a pair of cognac leather shorts. Once I turned the corner I found a row of white day dresses styled with more blazers and matlasse gowns, a one shoulder white structured mini and an off the shoulder printed maxi. I was searching to find a constant that would provide me with some kind of inspiration but couldn’t seem to. The looks were obviously styled by Mrs. Zoe and she was able to pull something together by mixing and matching but as stand alone pieces they fell very short. This collection lacked vision and the looks were not strong enough to stand on their own with out the personality of an uber stylist behind them.
The CFDA Inductees didn’t let down for spring. Timo Weiland’s Spring 2012 collection is full of texture, color and depth. Playing with proportions, Timo Weiland sent lace in hot pink and white down the runway for their Spring 2012 collection followed by khaki green shorts with a cropped top and mesh sleeves. Playful overalls and ethereal dresses followed by their signature varsity jacket reworked for Spring for the men every look made a point. The women’s wear is a stronger collection all around and more wearable than the men’s. I don’t think the men’s wear is as easy to wear but definitely has a cult following that wont be let down for Spring. I think this collection really has more depth to it than previous collections and proves they belong in the incubator!
Spring 2012 has been a parade of bold color and strong silhouettes. Statement piece galore! Lacoste showed mens and womens with looks in head to toe solids. opening with black for spring(which I love) and following up with a to-die-for white moto jacket with leather sleeves.
Sporty and feminine yes..but I dont quite see a tennis racket in the hands of these models. This season Lacoste stepped up their game, (the product of new creative director, Felipe Oliveira Baptista) the S/S 2012 collection looked like what you would wear after playing a game of tennis rather than on the court. Fuller silhouettes and more color blocking filled the runway. A camel swing coat, black separates and a white Mens suit gave me a slight whisper of London calling and an undertone of seventies. Rose tinted sunglasses accessorized the easier knit maxi’s that complimented and balanced the collection. The chiffon graphic top and color blocked print knits are perfect layering pieces with pops of color.
Logan Neitzel, known for his intricate leather work, didn’t let down or let up for Spring 2012. Presenting in a gallery on the Lower East Side with models standing side by side and surrounded by candles, the collection stayed true but evolved with sophistication. Logan created a leather crochet technique that he carried through the collection. Logan is a master at detail, and making leather look like knitwear. Light crepe dresses and a cut out gown layered underneath his leather crochet work made this a sophisticated and carpet worthy presentation.
Andrew Buckler closed off Gansevoort St in the Meat Packing District on the second day of NYFW to show his Spring 2012 collection. A huge crowd swarmed around under the bright sun and booming speakers to watch models 2 by 2 in the S/S 12 Buckler collection decorated with light weight hoodies, drop crotch pants denim and knitwear.