What exactly do you create when the person that everyone expects you to best is yourself?
It’s a question that Haider Ackermann undoubtedly must pose to himself since creating his emotional Fall 2011 collection and the timely demise of John Galliano. And while Spring 2012 didn’t quite do the job, the Colombian-born, Antwerp-trained Frenchman, went back to the cutting room floor and injected a bit of stability into the collection.
Stability not like that of another designer, which corresponds to consistency, but instead stability as it relates to structure. While not completely gone, for Fall 2012 Ackermann chose to remove some of the fragility from his woman and instill her with a bit of fortitude by way of boxy blazers, thicker materials and cinched waists – cinched not with a soft and supple sink but instead with strong leather bands and obi belts.
Leather actually seemed to rule the collection, coming manifest in gloves, skirts, belts, boots and even jackets. The asymmetrical motorcycle jacket nods back to the lover from last season, who is no doubt pleased by the flash of leg snaking out from the slit of the skirts, all anchored by beautifully done high heeled boots. Haider’s talent for creating pieces that are so effortlessly layered, evoking what can only be explained as the most organic, and possibly even Dada, of tones.